Age: 30 years old
Surf experience: 12 years
NOW Dredd works at RS, come and share with!
「How could you ride a wave without getting through...」
THE OCEAN～ Carried thousands of lives, changing all the time.It makes me feel freedom.Once you take a look of it, all the frustrating things will be released. I learned about "Respect for the nature" and I've got an open mind.I surf because I love freedom.When I was younger, I traveled to Taipei. I always choose the seat face to the coast line and saw the blue ocean and sky. I thought there were few people fishing in the ocean. I realized that's surfer. I met my first surfer friend, he told me they're waiting for the waves not fishing. I thought curiously about it might be dangerous while you've wiped out. It's safe because of leash. After I'd broken my ankle, my physical therapist advised me to go surfing. I won't afraid of hurt my ankle again, Tsk Tsk. That's why I start my surfing life.
Age：33 years old
surf experience： 20 years
(Wow！ Sounds so strange to think about it in terms of years！)
U.S.A Brian said：「Life's a beach」
The reason to start surfing： I was always attracted to the ocean， the energy of it， perfect waves， beautiful exotic locations， clean blue water， and the clean lifestyle. Also， all the cool girls and boys were surfers...
The picture was taken from Popoyo Nicaragua circa in 2009. 照片攝於2009年 Popoyo Nicaragua circa
surf experience： roughly 10 years
America John said：「There is nothing more invigorating that the feeling you get from surfing， and nothing more satisfying than the feeling you get after surfing.」
The reason to start surfing：
Because all of my friends were doing it. The peer pressure was just too overwhelming for me not to give it a try. So I said to myself 'I guess it won't hurt if I try it just once'. I was wrong. I have been addicted to surfing since. It is a high that lasts for hours. When the feeling wears off I will do just about anything， and I mean anything， to get another fix. And I plan to surf until the day I die.
The picture was taken at Long beach New York
照片攝於紐約 Long Beach
surf experience： 2 days 浪齡：2天
Rising Sun Quote of today
Malaysia Rynn said:「Talking about Surf, my mouth capes up; close my eyes and imagine sitting on the board in the ocean, my heart is eager to get into the water; open my eyes, check the schedule, when would be my next journey.
The reason to start surfing：About three years ago, I saw the surf photographer Clark Little's images on the internet. I could see a different world of the ocean in his work of arts. In the next couple of years, I've been watching movies about SURFING. Especially the leading actor Christian in Australia TV series called Dance Academy, he always goes to surf when he has free time. The films of GOPRO and ROXY inspire me more to go surfing. Then I decided to go to Taitung during spring break in April. I wanted to postpone the surfing lesson because I don't really know the water and afraid of the ocean. However, my coach encouraged me to try and soon I fell in love with surfing. Fire is already out of control, I couldn't live without surfing...
Surf experience: 12
Taiwan Tk Yang Savage Taiwan:「Just GO for it!」
The reason to start surfing: Curious、Fresh、Fun
The picture was taken in Secret spot.
Age:36 years old
Surf experience: 17 years+
Jack Hu: 「The spirits of surfing is Respect, Explore and Share」
The reason to start surfing: My brother ( Johnny Hu) took me surfing
Photo: double lions
Surf experience: uncountable (Starting Surfing life around 2-3years)
Maby : "Chatting with friends, Watch the turtle island and ocean, sky even NO WAVES, The feeling in my heart is too wonderful for words"
The reason to start surfing: Living in Dali (I-Lan). Seeing lot's of people surfing in Honey Moon Bay, I thought i could do it as well.But I couldn't catch any of those at the first time.The frustration encourage my Devil in my heart, I starting to go to the beach after all, until the first time I took off, I couldn't leave the world of Surfing.If i don't surf, i'll get Fever, Rash, Dizzy, Night Sweats and .....Diarrhea !!!!!
The picture was taken by Gopro Hero 2 from Double lions..
Surfing frequency: once a month Ideal conditions: waist high barrels
Dave: "The stoke is the same as it was 30 years ago!"
Then: Constantine Bay, Cornwall, 1978
Now: Wai Ao, January 2014
TAIWANESE AMERICAN SURFER
Surf experience :2 years
Reason to start surfing:
I’m in my own world in the open waters.
I surf for the feeling of freedom.
Harrison： 「Heaven is just a step away when you and the wave become one together.」
Photo: Paia Bay, Maui, Hawaii
Surf experience : 2 years
Reason to start surfing: broken heart.
G-Pai (chicken steak) Said: 「 There’s no wave ready for you, it’s how you prepare to enjoy the beautiful moment. 」
The photo was taken in Wushi.
Surf experience: 10 months
Reason to start surfing: to enjoy everything of nature
Jeremy said:「The ocean is my church, the wave became God and surfing is now my religion. 」
The picture was taken in Chijin
Surf spot: Backyards, Waiao!
Cami Kay Adair
Age now: 32
Age when began surfing: 24
My life didn’t really begin until I started surfing. I know that sounds absurd, but it’s true. Before I started surfing, just about everything I did was because I “should,” because I was supposed to. School, work, everything. Surfing was the first thing I loved even though I wasn’t good at it. It’s the thing that taught me to keep practicing, letting go of expectations and shame about how quickly you should improve. This opened up my mind to other hobbies and pursuits. It’s given me friends when I had none, hope in times of pain, a healthy addiction when everything else was crumbling around me. For the amount of time I’ve surfed, I’m still not very good- but guess what- it doesn’t matter. For once, the joy truly is in the journey. Thank you mother ocean for everything you’ve taught me (cheesy as hell, but she’s really the mother of us all).Reason to star surfing : Ex-boyfriend taught me. That relationship didn’t end well but I’m still grateful he taught me surfing ;)
Surf experience: 24 years
Garrett from California: Surf or die
Reason to start surfing:
Because I grew up at the beach. I started surfing when I was 6 because it was fun.But I liked bodyboarding more and I did bodyboarding until I was 9 or 10.Actually I think when the waves are too big for beginners they should try bodyboarding because they can learn the wave better and it's super easy.
Rising Sun Quote of the Day ( RS sponsored surfer)
Miguel Faria from Portugal:「its that thing of freedom」
First experience when I was 5 years old. But then I stopped and just bodyboard when I was younger because it was easier. Then I returned to surf when I was 10 but just started surfing frequently( Because before I would surf 3 times a year.) when I was 13! So everything together is around 4 years.Reason to start surfing: I surf because I felt freedom in the water. Since a really young age, i never liked rules. And in surfing to me there is no rules. No one can tell what to do on a wave. I just do whatever I want. And I like to ride every kind of boards, go fast down the line and have fun!
Surfing experience: 9 years
"Surfing taught me to respect and appreciate the power of nature" Andrew Liu Back in the days when he was serving his military service, he would flip through magazines whenever he was bored. He magically happened to see a Jinshan surf lesson advertisement and felt magically cool. He went to experience it in his holidays and got magically addicted till now!
Photo by Yu A Fu @Wush